The Zulu nation, forged by Shaka, was a powerful force in southern Africa. Invaded by Voortrekkers, subdued by the British, and eventually absorbed into South Africa, the many battles fought by Zulu warriors are a testament to its strength. Here are nine battle sites which are especially worth visiting…
Dingane's Kraal
Zulu histories record that the agreement reached at uMgungundlovu ('abode of the elephant' the site of Dingane's Krall) between Dingane and Piet Retief was made under duress; and faced with similar treatment handed out to Zulu leaders like Mzilikazi and Sekonyela, Dingane decided to eliminate the threat. Boer historians claim that the treaty was negotiated fairly and that Dingane had no reason to attack. Either way, on 6 February 1838, Piet Retief, 69 compatriots and 30 coloured attendants were clubbed to death to the cry of Bambani aba thakathi! ('Kill the wizards') on KwaMatiwane, the hill of execution. A memorial stands on the hill today, listing the names of the Boer victims.
Blood River
Three monuments commemorate the battle of 16 December 1838 – known as the Battle of Blood River if you were on the Boer side and the Battle of Ncome River if you were on the Zulu. It saw the blood of the slain Zulu warriors turn the Ncome River red – some 3000 bodies are said to have been counted (though history doesn’t tell us who undertook this grisly task) while the Voortrekkers suffered only a handful of wounded. The first monument was a granite ox wagon, put up on the centenary of the battle, followed by replica laager of full-size bronze ox wagons, and finally in 1999 the Ncome Museum to give a interpretation of the battle from the Zulu point of view.
Isandlwana
When Chelmsford, acting on intelligence, split his force in the hope of engaging the Zulu, he laid the ground for the most important Zulu victory of the Anglo-Zulu War. A total force of around 1,700 men was left behind in camp, relatively unprepared for the approaching 25,000 Zulu warriors. On 22 January 1879 the camp was virtually wiped out. Isandlwana is famous for the number of memorial cairns erected to the British troops, and is probably the most visited battlefield in South Africa. Curiously it was only in 1999 that a memorial was erected to the Zulu fallen. The site is very imposing and you'll need a whole day to cover everything.
Rorke's Drift
After the massacre at Isandlwana no one would have predicted that the eight officers and 135 men at the re-supply depot of Rorke's Drift would hold off an attack by 4,000 Zulu warriors. But after 13 hours the Zulus withdrew. The
11 Victoria crosses are the largest number awarded to a single regiment, and the fourth largest for a single battle. Witt's old house now contains an excellent museum with dioramas and relics, and the building is still reminiscent of the original hospital. If you can, stay until dusk to experience the time of day when the battle was at it's height. Use the afternoon to walk up Oskarsberg Mountain for an excellent view of the site. Fugitives Drift, only 8km away, with the graves of Coghill and Melvill are on a private game reserve, get permission to visit.
Eshowe
Fort Eshowe, the place chosen by the British to prepare for the attack on Ulundi, was placed under siege for 10 weeks (2 February – 29 March 1879)before being relieved by Lord Chelmsford. Unfortunately the Mission station was burnt down and the place is not always now well kept, but it's proximity to other Anglo-Zulu war battle sites makes it an interesting addition to your route. Take the opportunity to visit Fort Nongqayi (and the Zululand Historical Museum) in the nearby town of Eshowe, with an excellent display on John Dunn (the only white man to become a Zulu chief, along with 49 wives) and the Bambatha Rebellion.
